Monday, January 25, 2010

Training dogs to do tricks and basic commands.

YOUR DOG TRICKS

Teaching dogs tricks can be great fun for you and your dog. When you think about it most obedience exercises are only a set of “Tricks”. When you are doing a lot of formal obedience work with your dog sometimes tricks can break up the training session and any type of work with your dog is building a bond between you both.

Keep teaching sessions short and above all have fun!!!

Getting Started . . . Beginning training sessions should be in a safe area with no distractions. After you and your dog have finished this "course" and he has the commands down pat every time, try moving the sessions to a park so he will eventually learn to follow commands despite any distractions.

You should only concentrate on one new command per week. Once you start your dog's training, you will need to practice the new command for at least fifteen minutes every day. After adding a second command, practice both every day. And so on. It won't take long for your dog to forget these new things if you don't keep practicing. Not all dogs learn at the same pace, so don't feel discouraged if you need to practice each command for two weeks instead of one.

Your dog wants to make you happy, and he will quickly do what you want once he knows what it is you want him to do. The way for him to know it is what you want is to praise him every time he does it - even if you had to put his body in the right position or he did the right thing on accident. In the beginning, your praise should sound hapy and excited and include lots of nice petting.

The commands you give should be said in a commanding voice - just slightly louder than normal, very authoritative and stern, and in a slightly deeper tone than normal. "Sit!" means sit down right where you are and do it immediately. Saying "sit?" means please sit - that is, if you feel like it - okay, when you get around to it - maybe?

When you say come in your most authoritative voice and he runs through the front yard of three neighbors before coming to you, do not say no, yell at him, or sound mean. He came, so praise him. The last action is the only one he will relate to your praise or lack of it - the only one that he will think made you happy or mad.

All commands must be enforced. Dog training is not for a lazy person. In the beginning, each command will be given at the same time that you literally put his body into the position that you want. When you think he knows the command, try it with the verbal command alone - once. If you have to give the command a second time, it should be done at the same time that you physically put him into position. Otherwise, he will think that he can either obey or not, or that he can take his own sweet time to obey.

Anything that you have been allowing a dog to do in the past that you want to change now will take longer than if you start with a new puppy that does not yet have any bad habits. A six-week old puppy can learn to sit, come, stay, get off, and heel in a matter of days. Stay takes longer with the really young ones because they are usually only not moving when they are sleeping or chewing on your good slippers. But, a dog of any age can and will learn all of these things if you are persistent, you sound authoritative when you give the commands, and you praise him as soon as he does it right.

Beyond Sit and Stay . . . Teaching your dog a few fun tricks will entertain the both of you and perhaps amuse friends as well. Some easy fun tricks include fetching the paper, jumping through a hoop, and speaking. Before trying these tricks do make sure your pooch has down the basics such as sitting, staying, lying down and perhaps shaking ‘hands’ before attempting anything more ambitious. Also decide on what you will try for motivation. You can use good old dog biscuits or simply enthusiastic praise.

The counting dog trick!

Foreword: As miraculous as this counting dog thing seems, it is in reality just a trick. A very cleverly disguised trick, but still a trick. With a lot of patience, time, and the correct teaching method, most dogs can learn to 'count'. Please note that this is a more challenging trick, and Rover must learn SPEAK first.

Second Foreword:

The main part in teaching this trick is getting your Rover to respond to a hardly noticeable signal. They learn to listen for the "What is ........, Rover? This is the cue for them to start barking, until they see the signal to stop. In the past there have been many such animals which could 'count', such as a counting horse. This horse had been trained to observe its audience nodding to each correct foot pawing it would do, until the correct number had been reached. Then the audience, without even realizing it, would stop nodding their heads, waiting to see if the horse would stop at the correct number. This method of course was ingenious, for it took the attention off the trainer (because when testing the legitimacy of the horse, the trainer would be watched closely for any signs of a signal).

Directions: First of all, Rover needs to know how to bark on cue, and also to stop barking on cue. And these can't be normal barks, they need to be controlled and countable. Follow the directions for SPEAK to teach this. Now think what kind of cues you wish to use. Using "what is" can run you into trouble, for Rover might start to bark before you actually said the number. Now in the beginning you will have to combine your almost invisible signal with a word command. And also make the hand/head signal pretty noticeable. Say "Rover, BARK" and deeply nod your head. Then "Rover, STOP" and deeply nod you head again. This is just an example, your cue words/signals can differ. Repeat this over a couple of training sessions until Rover response to your signals alone. What I do is to give the signal first, then the word command, treat if the dog response after the signal. This of course, as with any trick, must be taught in progressive stages. You can then slowly diminish your head/hand signal.

Of course, in order for this trick to be successfully, your Rover needs to be trained to observe the smallest of signal. Check FOCUS for help on this.

The FOCUS ON ME trick!

Foreword: In order to teach your Rover tricks and have Rover perform them, Rover must have his attention on you! Imaging, a perfectly attentive Rover, both eyes on you, alert and ready for the slightest trick signal from you! It is possible, yes, even for the super hyper Rover. Okay, let's focus!

Directions: There are a variety of focusing tricks out there, here are just two basic ones.

Look at me: Here you get your Rover to focus on you for a limited time, and then reward him with a treat. Make sure your hands are hidden, so he won't be inclined to look at them instead. Start with sitting on your knees (easier for a little Rover to look at your face, but you can also stand for more authority), calling the Rover over to you, making him sit and saying "Rover, focus." Now when you have Rovers attention, make him hold it for a couple of seconds and reward. You can then slowly lengthen the time to 5 seconds and beyond. If Rovers concentration breaks and Rover stops looking at you, call him again "Rover, focus" and shorten the time you have Rover focus.

Ball catch: This is a fun activity for regular playtime, yet it also improves Rover's coordination and focusing skills. This 'game' evolves out of the regular ball throw and retrieve. Start by having the ball in your hand, and Rover sitting in front of you. Hold the ball and let Rover take it out of your hand. Play around with this, giving Rover the ball, and taking it back again. After a while start rolling the ball into Rovers mouth, and then throwing it from a really short distance. The purpose here is to not simply throw the ball and have poor Rover get hit on the head, consequently dodging all balls being thrown at him for all eternity. So, start slow, and throw the ball really slowly, in a nice upward curve. Once Rover gets the basic catch down, you can make it more challenging. The ball catch can even be the basis for fancier Frisbee throws.

The HIDE trick!

Foreword:At your command Rover will hide one of his eyes! So cute and a trick every movie star dog knows. The technique for HIDE YOUR EYES is very similar to SHAKE. So come on, letÕs brush up on some movie star dog basics!

Directions

Water Directions: Simply acquire a spray bottle with water in it. Call Rover over to you and have Rover sit. Say "Rover, HIDE!" and give a GENTEL MIST in thedirection of Rovers face. Aim for the general face area.

Now Rover can have multiple reactions to this. At points some of my Rovers have tried to 'drink' the water, run away, shake their heads, and also hidden their eyes. Adjust where you spray, aiming for the ears for the shaking of the head, and eyes for HIDE YOUR EYES.

Once Rover starts to HIDE on spray, simply repeat, saying HIDE before you spray, giving Rover a chance to do it. Reward him every time he hides his eyes and stop after a couple shake and sprays! After a while, you will not have to spray anymore, just have the bottle in your hand and say HIDE. This will then progress to you only making a spraying motion with you hand and saying HIDE.

Air Directions: I prefer using this method. Not only is it more convenient, but it also prevents water from irritating Rover's eyes. Follow the water directions, but instead of using a spray bottle, just gently blow in the directions of Rover ear.

Tape Directions:Another alternative is to use a piece of tape and place it below Rover's eye. Make sure it is a very weak brand, and stick and un-stick it on your hand or pant leg a couple of times first. This way it will still stick on Rover but will come off without some of RoverÕs fur! Follow the water directions, but instead of using a spray bottle, use the tape.

The SPIN trick!

Foreword: This is a very simple trick. At your command, Rover will spin around in a circle!

Directions: With Rover standing in front of you, hold out a doggie treat and show it to your Rover. Hold it so your Rover can't just take it out of your hand. Now lead Rover with the treat in a circle while saying SPIN. After Rover completes the rotation, give him the treat, and praise with "Good SPIN!" and repeat. After a couple of training sessions, I try it without a treat, by just having Rover follow my finger. Finally this evolves into a simple finger spin and the vocal SPIN command.

Alternatives: This trick can also be taught to be direction specific. I recommend first teaching Rover SPIN. If Rover spins in the same direction every time, simply repeat the above method going the other direction and add "counter spin" to the command. Or you can tell Rover to SPIN RIGHT or SPIN LEFT. Once your Rover gets good at this you can even have him spin in a figure eight! Just make sure to keep it to one or two rotations, or you Rover will get dizzy!

The SHAKE trick!

Foreword: A simple trick, but very cute nonetheless! At your command, Rover shakes his head, as if in disagreement! Combine with an almost unobservable hand signal and turn this into a cute party surprise. Rover answers your question with a definite no.

Directions: SHAKE can be taught using two methods. One being with water and the other with air. Take your pick. It is recommended not to use the water method on a water-shy Rover, for all Rover will do is run and hide from you!

Water Directions: Simply acquire a spray bottle with water in it. Call Rover over to you and have Rover sit. Say "Rover, SHAKE!" and give a gentle mist in the direction of Rovers face. Aim for the general face area.

Now Rover can have multiple reactions to this. At points some of my Rovers have tried to 'drink' the water, run away, hidden their eyes behind their paws (another trick possibility here!), and also actually shaken their heads. Adjust where you spray, aiming for the ears for the shaking of the head, and eyes for HIDE YOUR EYES.

Once Rover starts to shake on spray, simply repeat, saying SHAKE before you spray, giving Rover a chance to do it. Reward him every time he shakes his head and stop after a couple shake and sprays! After a while, you will not have to spray anymore, just have the bottle in your hand and say SHAKE. This will then progress to you only making a spraying motion with you hand and saying SHAKE.

Air Directions: I prefer using this method. Not only is it more convenient, it also prevents water from entering Rovers ears. Follow the water directions, but instead of using a spray bottle, just gently blow in the directions of Rover ear.

GO TO YOUR SPOT!

Foreword: Before we begin, think about a spot you would like your Rover to sleep on and hang out on during the day. This might be a dog bed, a rug, or anything else that Rover can call Rovers on.

All Rovers need a place of their own, somewhere where they can get away from all that attention, little kids and people wanting to teach them more tricks. This is their "safe zone" where nobody bothers them.

Directions: Once you have a spot for Rover we can begin. Simply say, Rover, GO TO YOUR SPOT, and take Rover to Rovers place and DOWN Rover. After a minute or two praise Rover for staying in Rovers spot and release Rover.

Repeat this step a couple of times, rotating praise and treats. After a while stop going all the way to Rovers spot with Rover. Most Rovers are pretty quick with this trick. Don't expect Rover to spend every minute in Rovers spot. At first after the trick is taught you might have to encourage Rover to go to Rovers spot, but after a while Rover will do it both on command and when Rovers feels like it.

Conclusion: As I said, this trick is pretty easy to teach. But here are a couple pointers for improving Rovers trainability.

Tell Rover to GO TO YOUR SPOT and throw a treat on Rovers spot. Make sure Rovers DOWNS on Rovers spot though.

Give Rover a bone to enjoy while relaxing on Rovers spot.
Shorten the command to something like SPOT or BED

Teach your dog to SIT!

Foreword: This is as basic of a trick as your can get. But basic work is required to be able to teach Rover harder tricks.

Directions for small to medium dog's: Hold onto Rover's collar while he is in a standing position. Say SIT and gently push down on Rover's hind quarters. When he is in a sitting position praise him. Repeat.

After a while Rover will start recognizing the word SIT with your pushing his hind quarters down. Now you only have to use a small amount of pressure on his hind quarters to make him sit. Repeat this until you only have to say the word SIT to make Rover sit.

Directions for BIG dog's: Because you can't simply force a Big Rover to sit, you have to use a different technique. Take a yummy dog treat and hold it slightly over Big Rover's nose. It is important not to hold it too high or Rover will jump up. Say SIT. As Big Rover looks up at the treat he will automatically sit. Praise him and give him the treat.

If Rover did not sit, you must hold the treat a little farther over his head. Now he must stare up and tilt his head back to get it.

Repeat this step until you don't have to use a treat anymore and Rover sits on command.

GIVE YOUR PAW!

Foreword:This is a very simple trick to teach which later can be used as a base to teach WAVE.

Direction: Simply say GIVE YOUR PAW and take Rovers paw. Praise Rover and give Rover a treat. Repeat this step a couple times. Rover will eventually get it and start raising his paw after you say GIVE YOUR PAW and before you reach for it. Lots of praise! Stop training for the day and reward Rover for being such a good boy!

In the next training lesson say GIVE YOUR PAW and hold out your hand. If Rover remembers Rover will put his paw in your hand. Lots of praise! If Rover forgot, back up to the last step and pick up his foot for him a couple of times. Soon Rover will catch on and place his foot in your hand.

Conclusion: You can add some variety to this trick by teaching Rover to give either his right or left paw on command. Do this by using the same technique you used for teaching GIVE YOUR PAW.

Teach your dog to WAVE!

Rover demonstrating WAVE.

Foreword: WAVE can be taught after you have taught your Rover GIVE YOUR PAW. It is extremely cute and if you want to, you can combine it with SIT UP. This takes more work though.

Directions: Tell Rover to SIT and to GIVE YOUR PAW WAVE. Now, instead of reaching for Rovers paw, lift your hand a little higher so Rover must lift his foot up to reach your hand. Don't let Rover put his paw in your hand. Pull back your hand. Praise Rover for trying to put his paw in your hand. (He will be very confused, but it's okay).

Do it again saying ROVER, GIVE YOUR PAW WAVE. Hold your hand higher than you would for GIVE YOUR PAW, and don't let him put his paw in it. But you don't want to hold your hand to high, or he won't even try.

After you have done this a couple of times you can start dropping the GIVE YOUR PAW, and just say WAVE.

Teach your dog to SIT UP!

Foreword: This trick is really cute. Especially if a dog bone is put on his nose while he is sitting up, and then having Rover catch it in the air. Some dogs teachthemselves this trick, while others have to be taught how to do it. I have seen a couple of dogs who just can't do it. I think it's just how they are build. So if your dog just won't stay up even after you have been teaching it for a couple months, don't panic, just move on to another trick.

Directions:If your dog is NOT one of those dogs were you can hold a treat over its nose and it'll sit up, do this. Have Rover sit and move behind him. Support his back with you legs and gently pull him up to a sit up position. You could also do this in a corner. Tuck his legs in. Start using the word SIT UP every time you lift him up. Once he gets comfortable you can try luring him up with a treat. He still needs that back support though!

Once he is getting the idea and learns the new command, try luring him up with a treat without the back support!

Teach your dog to BOW!

Foreword: Bow is a pretty easy trick, but looks impressive!

Directions:There are two ways to teach this trick. You must decide which will be the best for your Rover.

BOW for the food crazy Rover: Since your Rover will jump off a plane to get that little doggy treat, this version should be pretty easy to teach. Start by getting those yummy treats! Next, have Rover stand while you kneel next to him. Now take that treat and hold it between Rovers front paws. Hopefully, Rover will now look down and try to get the treat. If Rover doesn't respond to the treat, move on to the other version.

Once Rover starts to reach for the treat, pull your hand slightlyback, so Rover must look in between his legs. To keep his balance, Rover should now BOW. Give him the treat! Now repeat it until Rover goes into the BOW position faster. Meanwhile, you should be saying BOW every time he BOWS.

If Rover lays down instead of bowing, gently put your hand on his tummy while Rover is standing. This should keep him from laying down.

BOW for the food picky Rover: If you have one of those Rover's who just won't respond to those yummy doggy treats (including mine) you have to try this version.

Start by kneeling next to Rover with one hand on Rovers shoulder and the other supporting his tummy. Now say BOW and gently apply pressure from the hand that's on Rovers shoulder. Repeat this, saying BOW every time and rewarding Rover for being forced into the position. Once he starts getting it, you won't have to apply so much pressure anymore.

This should get Rover into the BOW position, but if your working with a BIG Rover, here is another version to try.

BOW for the food picky BIG Rover: Well, since BIG Rover just won't budge using the above methods, here is another version to try. Kneel next to BIG Rover and put one hand on his tummy and the other on his forelegs. Now say BOW, and grab his front legs and gently pull them forward until he is in the BOW position. Now praise and try it again. Be gently though, or BIG Rover will protest.

Teach your dog to JUMP ROPE!

Foreword: This is a tough trick! But it looks cool once Rover gets it. It also is a good way to get that extra energy a little lower!

Directions:The easiest way to start teaching this trick is to get Rover on a box. You want it large enough for Rover to turn around on, but not so large that Rover can walk around on it. Hold on to Rovers collar and slowly slide a stick under Rover. Start at Rovers forequarters and then move on to his hindquarters. The first time go really slow, so Rover does not get scared and tries to jump of the box. Let Rover step over the stick. Only do this for about 2 minutes at a time.

After Rover gets used to stepping over the stick at a slow pace, go a little faster. Use the command JUMP ROPE when he is jumping over it. Now you can try him with the jump rope. Always start at his front and pull the rope to the back. Once he is jumping over it, you can take him down from the box and try it on the ground. If he jumps over the rope and stays on the same spot your work is done! If not back up a step.

Teach your dog to SPEAK!

Foreword: Some people don't teach their Rover this trick because they think by encouraging Rover to bark he will become a nuisance barker! This is not so. ButYOU have to tell Rover when and where to speak and when to stop. Don't encourage Rover if he starts or keeps on barking without you wanting him to. There are some tips on what to do then on the bottom of the page.

Directions for the vocal Rover: First find out what will make Rover bark. It might be the doorbell ringing, the telephone, or something like you holding his food. Every dog is different so you must find out what works for your dog.

Lets say that Rover barks every time that someone rings the doorbell. Have someone ring the bell while you are next to Rover. Just before the bell rings, say ROVER, SPEAK! As soon as the bell rings and Rover barked once, praise Rover, saying GOOD SPEAK! If Rover keeps on barking, check out the paragraph on the bottom of the page.

Do this in every training session. Soon Rover will start recognizing you telling him to SPEAK and him barking. Once Rover starts to bark after you say SPEAK and before the doorbell rings, quit using the doorbell. Now you can start saying SPEAK without having to use the doorbell. If Rover forgets, go back to the last step.

Note! After you get to the last step make sure Rover stops barking at the doorbell. (Unless you want him too) Further directions are below.

Directions for the food crazy Rover: If you don't like the directions above, or Rover is a good boy and simply doesn't bark in those situations try these directions.

Hold up a piece of Rovers favorite doggy treat. Excite him with your voice, saying things like, "Do you want this? Do you? Speak and you'll get it!!!" If Rover barks (my dog first went through all the tricks that she knew, finally she gave up and just started barking in frustration, exactly what I wanted) give Rover the food immediately, praising and saying GOOD SPEAK! Repeat this saying SPEAK and holding up the treat until he immediately SPEAKS.

At this point I like to go over to a hand signal, (I use both, you never know when it can come in handy, like, if you want your Rover to be the next movie star.... well, we can dream, can't we?) I have written down the directions for hand signals here!

Directions for the absolutely stubborn Rover: Sometimes our dogs just like to see us suffer as we make the measly attempt to teach them a simple trick. Well, for all those well trained Rovers who have learned it is "impolite" to bark at the mail man or to be baited, here are the directions for you.

Warning! Please only try these directions if the above directions did not work. For most dogs the above directions will be better and easier to teach then the one below.

Make your Rover jealous! Tie Rover up to a tree while you pet another dog in Rovers eyesight! If he starts to bark in protest, reward! Immediately turn your attention to Rover and reward Rover for barking! Another one you could try is tying Rover up rather short and bringing out his food. Rover will protest and start to pull on the leash. Then Rover will start to bark. Reward him with Rovers dinner saying GOOD SPEAK.

Teach your dog to RETRIEVE!

Foreword: Once Rover has learned RETRIEVE, you can do almost anything. Even if it is a simple thing like "fetch your ball," or more complex like "get me an egg". Believe me, I have heard of a dog who would go every morning down to the chickens, open the gate, get an egg, close the gate and come back with the egg unharmed (except for a lot of doggy slobber all over it, that is)! Well, that might not be on of your near future goals for teaching your Rover, but once you teach this retrieving trick, you can let you imagination take over.

Directions:There are two ways to teach Rover RETRIEVE depending on what kind of dog he is.

Fetch for the Rover who loves his ball: Since you have a Rover who loves his ball, and sometimes getting the ball back is a battle of it's own, here is the perfect way to teach RETRIEVE.

Simply throw the ball and have Rover chase it. Once he gets the ball, call him back to you. If he comes, praise him but IGNORE the ball. Don't try to take it or you'll soon have a Rover who will always drop the ball coming back half way to you. If Rover is being a bad boy, and decides to enjoy HIS ball in the other corner of the yard, you'll have to use a rope. Tie the rope to Rover and throw the ball again. Now call him and if he doesn't come give tug on the leash. You don't want to pull him in, instead you want him to come to you on his own will. Or so HE thinks!

Once your Rover is coming to you, praise him and still ignore the ball. Now try some other commands while he has the ball in his mouth. Like HEEL, SIT, and COME. You don't want him to drop his ball. Try not to use the word NO, as this may cause him to drop it. If Rover wants to play cat and mouse, ignore him and move the other direction and call him, if he response, praise.

Now that Rover has confidence in working with his ball, move on to another object like a dowel or a stick. You don't want Rover to become too attached and he'll only retrieve his ball.

Throw the object a couple of feet and tell Rover to RETRIEVEit. If hefetches it and brings it back to you, then you have a great dog. Do this with other objects, like small boxes, shoes or whatever you want. If Rover RETRIEVES them each time and brings them back to you, praise him. Your job was easy. Make sure Rover keeps the object in his mouth until you say GIVE or RELEASE. You don't want him dropping the egg on the kitchen floor. = )

If you don't have a wonder Rover like that (including mine) then you'll have to try the next direction.

Retrieve for the Rover who hates his ball: Your Rover might not be as bad as mine, but I got to a point were my Rover wouldn't even fetch the ball anymore. I could never have Rover keep the ball in its mouth once Rover did RETRIEVE it. So here is the method I used (it took me a couple of months) to get Rover to love his ball.

As I said in the directions above, don't take the ball away from Rover every time he comes back with it. This will make future tricks, as carry a basket almost impossible. Only do this exercise for a couple of minutes, you don't want Rover to become bored.

Take the stick (It should be only around four-inches long) and have Rover sit next to you . Hold the leash in your left hand and the stick in your right. Now say ROVER, TAKE IT and hold it in front of his mouth. Don't worry if Rover spits it out right away. Try it again. Speed in praising Rover is very important. You want to praise him for taking it instead of praising him for spitting it out.

If your Rover is very resistant and doesn't even want to open his mouth, grab Rovers collar. This will keep him from turning his head. Now open his mouth and pop the stick in while praising him. Make sure you don't praise him when he spits it out though.

You want to keep Rover happy though, so DON'T practice this for hours.

Once you do a couple of sessions of this, Rover should willingly open his mouth. Praise him! After Rover gets the connection between taking the stick in his mouth and you praising him, he'll start reaching for it. Praise is vital now, as you don't want to have Rover back up a couple of steps. Once he starts reaching for it, you can start holding the stick farther away. Try this a couple of times and then place the stick on the ground. If he retrieves it, your work is done for the day and play some old fashion FETCH!

Conclusion: Once your Rover RETRIEVES the stick willingly you can switch to other things like small boxes, shoes, pens or whatever you want him to fetch. If, at any time, Rover refuses to RETRIEVE something, back up a couple of steps!

Teach your dog to CRAWL!

Foreword: CRAWL is easier to teach with two people. It is easier to have a second person gently keep the dog from standing up while the other calls the dog. But it can be achieved with only one person too.

Directions: Tell Rover to lay down. Get down on your knees and gently grab hold onto Rovers collar with one hand and put the other on Rovers back. Now tell Rover to CRAWL and gently pull forward on Rovers collar. The response you will probably get is that Rover will try to stand up. That's when you use your other hand that you have on his back. Push him down gently before he stands up all the way. Now try it again while giving a little pressure from the hand on his back. If he crawls a couple inches, praise him (make sure he doesn't get up while you do) and give him a treat. Now try it again.

If Rover is really stubborn and wont budge an inch, then get that second person to help you. The second person (Lets call her Su) will stand a little distance (Start with only a couple feet away) away from you and Rover. Get back down on your knees next to Rover with one hand on his back and one on his collar. Tell Su to call him. Rover will of course try to get up and run to Su. Push him down gently and make Rover CRAWL!

Once you have done this a couple times with Rover, and Rover is making no effort of standing up while he is crawling, you can start not putting your hand on his back. If Rover stands up go back to the last step. If Rover remains down, lots of praise! Now you can move on with you standing while giving the command. Then move away and tell Rover to CRAWL. If Rover does, your work is done!!!!

Also you can lure Rover into CRAWLING by holding a treat infront of Rovers nose, dragging it along the ground. Keep a hand on Rovers back/collar.

Teach your dog to LIMP!

Foreword: This is a very hard one to teach!

Directions:Start with having Rover on a leash. Stand in front of him and loop the leash under one of his forelegs, so you can elevate his wrist. Now gently pull on the leash so that he must elevate his leg. Now call Rover to you. ROVER, COME, LIMP. If he takes a couple steps with only three legs, praise him! Now let him rest and try again.

If Rover does not like being three legged and tries to pull away, get a second person to help you. Have her hold onto Rovers collar and leg while you call him to you.

Once Rover starts to get it, relax a little on the leash and have him walk a bigger distance. Now you can also try it off leash. Make a sling around his wrist and attach it to his collar. Now call him to you using the LIMP command. If Rover tries to walk on all four legs go back a step. If he does LIMP you can now remove the leash and try him. If he LIMPS, your work is finished! Good job!!!

Teach your dog to PLAY DEAD!

Foreword: This trick is best taught after Rover has had some exercise and is ready to rest. Rover will need to know the DOWN command to successfully complete this trick.

Directions: Tell Rover to DOWN and note the side that he is leaning on. Now gently push him over saying PLAY DEAD. As he rolls over on his side praise him and give him a tummy scratch. Repeat this until you don't have to use any pressure to get him to roll onto his side.

Conclusion:This trick is part of the BANG BANG trick, but can be used by itself too. Simply say BANG as the command instead of PLAY DEAD. Because Rover was shot down he must remain still. Practice this a couple of times making Rover stay in the PLAY DEAD position, not moving a muscle.

The BANG BANG trick!

Foreword: To perform this trick your dog must know LIMP, CRAWL and PLAY DEAD. If Rover knows these tricks by heart you can try the BANG BANG trick!

Suddenly you pull your finger out of you "holster" and point atRover and say BANG! Rover starts to LIMP. Another BANG and Rover starts to CRAWL. Another BANG and Rover PLAYS DEAD.

Like I said before to teach this trick your Rover must know LIMP, CRAWL and PLAY DEAD in his sleep.

Directions:To teach the BANG BANG trick, give Rover the LIMP command followed by you pulling out your finger and saying BANG. If Rover LIMPS give lots of praise. Now tell Rover to CRAWL followed by pulling out your finger and saying BANG. Praise! Now do the same thing for PLAY DEAD.

Repeat the sequence always going from LIMP to CRAWL to PLAY DEAD. You must do this, because you only have one command (BANG) for three different tricks. After you do this a couple times you can start dropping the first word and only say BANG.

Teaching HAND SIGNALS!

Foreword: I like to use both hand signals and vocal signals. You never know when they can come in handy, like, if you want your Rover to be the next movie star.... well, we can dream, can't we?).

Directions: Teaching hand signals is easy. You can try teaching only hand signals from the beginning, although I have found it is hard to keep Rovers attention on you. The easiest method is simply first to teach the trick using a vocal command. Once this is achieved, simply do the hand signal every time you say the command. Rover will soon put the hand signal together with the vocal command and your job is done.

There are many hand signals you can use. Such as opening and closing your hand. Make up some of your own.

But to get you started here are some examples:

1. For SIT, raise index finger and point down.

2. For SPEAK, use the duck or sock puppet hand movement. This just involves touching all your main fingers to your thumb at the same time.

3. For DOWN, with your hand palm side down, raise and lower it.

4. For GO POTTY, use one hand, and put your thumb in between index and middle finger, and then move hand left and right gently.

These are just some examples. The list of hand signals really goes on indefinitely. You can spin a finger, give a thumps up, peace sign...etc. Just make sure the movement is clear and short.

KISS!!

Most people who love dogs enjoy getting a kiss on the cheekfrom an affectionate canine. Even if you say nothing, many dogs will lick your cheek if you present it to them and pet them. If your dog doesn't, or if you want him to do it on command, simply dab a bit of butter on your cheek and say, "Give me a kiss." After a few practice sessions, he will lick your face without the "treat."

If you'd like your dog to look debonair as well as affectionate, try the same technique to get him to kiss lady's hand. Now make sure he distinguishes the word cheek from the word hand so that he will deliver exactly the kind of affection you ask him to. He's sure to get many kisses in return and perhaps an occasional blush.

Getting A Petsitter Or Boarding Your Dog!

How to Choose a Pet Sitter
Not every pet sitter is alike, here's how to find a good one.

If you’re taking a trip and leaving your pet at home, you have three basic pet care options:
Ask a family member, friend or neighbor to care for your pet while you’re away.
Board your pet at a kennel or veterinarian clinic.
Hire a professional pet sitter.
A professional pet sitter will provide services ranging from daily feeding and walking to extensive play time and full-time pet care and house sitting in your home. When you’re choosing a pet sitter, here are a few things to consider.
Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Pet Sitter:
What services are included in the fee?
Are there any extra services that require additional payments?
Does the sitter have a standard contract that spells out services, payments and other obligations?
Is the sitter bonded and insured for liability?
Can the sitter provide references that you can check?
What types of pets has the sitter cared for in the past?
How much time will the sitter spend with your pet?
What kind of activities will the sitter share with your pet?
How would the pet sitter handle a medical or home emergency?
Is the sitter affiliated with any pet care organizations?
Before Leaving Your Pet with a Sitter:
Assemble everything the sitter will need to care for your pet, including house keys, food and water dishes, any medications your pet may need, and enough food and treats to last for the duration of your trip.
Describe your pet’s personality to the sitter, and spend some time introducing the sitter to your pet. You should also acquaint the sitter with your pet’s health issues, habits, hiding places and favorite toys.
Leave your sitter with written, detailed pet care instructions, including phone number for your veterinarian and your travel itinerary with contact numbers where you can be reached in an emergency.
Finally, try to spend more than the usual amount of quality time playing and interacting with your pet in the days leading up to your trip. Being separated from their owners for long periods is hard on many pets. Spending a little extra time with your pet before your trip begins may make you and your pet feel better.

Choosing the right Vet For Yor Dog!!

Choosing a veterinarian that is right for you and your dog is not always easy. You want to find a veterinarian with whom you and your dog can feel comfortable and can build a trusting relationship. And you want to find that veterinarian before you get a dog - the veterinarian may be able to help you select a pet that will fit your expectations and lifestyle. If you have moved, or for some other reason need to change veterinarians, find a new veterinarian before your dog becomes ill.
Types of veterinary practices
Different types of veterinary practices exist. Those that provide care to companion animals include the following:

Small animal practice: These veterinarians work mainly with dogs and cats. Many also care for pocket pets, reptiles, ferrets, and birds.
Mixed animal practice: These veterinarians are commonly found in more rural areas as they work with pets as well as horses, cattle, and other farm animals.
Emergency clinics: These clinics are very helpful in the event an emergency occurs outside of your veterinarian's regular office hours. They do not typically handle routine check-ups, vaccinations, or spays/neuters. Emergency clinics may also see patients who need 24-hour care or exams with specialized equipment to perform procedures such as ultrasonagraphy or endoscopy that the veterinarians in the surrounding area do not have at their facilities.
Exotics clinics: These veterinarians specialize in caring for pocket pets, reptiles, birds, ferrets, and species other than dogs and cats.
Avian clinics: These veterinarians specialize in companion bird health.
Dog only clinics: These veterinarians limit their practice to dogs only.
Mobile practices: Some veterinarians will travel to your house to treat your pet just like some travel to farms to treat farm animals.

The veterinarians that limit the species of patients to which they provide care, such as 'dog-only,' are able to devote more time to learning about that particular species. This allows for more in-depth knowledge of disease processes in that species. In many multi-doctor practices, the doctors have individual interests which they pursue. They are available to consult with other doctors in the clinic on those subjects.
Where to find a veterinarian...
Dr. Frisby greeting a Newfoundland

Ask friends, family, and co-workers that have pets:

Where do they take their pets and why?
Do they like the location?
Is the staff friendly and do they seem knowledgeable?
Does the doctor fully explain the diagnosis, treatment plan, and expected outcome of a disease?
Are they comfortable asking the doctor questions?

Breed or training clubs: If you have a certain breed of dog, breed clubs may be a good source of information when looking for a veterinarian. This is very helpful if you have plans to breed your pet, since a knowledgeable veterinarian is a great asset. If you go to dog training classes, ask the instructors and other participants where they go and why.
Local directories: The yellow pages or business pages of a phone book normally will provide information on local veterinarians' names, addresses, and phone numbers.
Things to look for when visiting a veterinary clinic...
Office hours and emergencies:

What are the regular office hours?
What hours are the doctors available for appointments?
How are emergencies handled during business hours?
How are emergencies handled after hours and on holidays?
How long does it take to get an appointment for a wellness exam versus a 'sick pet' appointment?

Veterinarian and staff:

How are questions over the phone handled?
Are the staff knowledgeable and courteous?
Are phone calls answered quickly?
Are you put on 'hold' for long periods of time?
Can you see a specific doctor if you are at a multi-doctor practice?
Do you feel comfortable with the receptionist, technician, and doctor?

Fees and payment:
Do not make cost your determining factor when choosing a veterinarian. It is very difficult to compare costs for medical services because every veterinarian practices differently. Expect to pay a fair price for the services received. In a critical situation, cost is usually not your first concern, so choose quality care above all else. Your pet is more than a financial investment. Along with cost, find out:

What methods of payment are accepted?
When is payment due?
Are credit cards accepted?

Services:

What types of services are available?
Medical exams?
Surgery, including orthopedic?
Dentistry?
Radiology (x-rays)?
Ultrasonography?
Endoscopy?
Nutrition counseling?
Behavior counseling?
Laboratory testing?
Are the veterinarians willing to refer pets to specialists? If so, whom?
Do they have auxiliary services such as

Puppy classes?
Grooming?
Boarding?

Facilities:

Is the practice clean and neat?
Are there unpleasant odors?
Are the grounds well kept?
Is the facility in a good location and easy for you to get to?

Professional affiliations:

Are the doctors members of professional associations?
Is the hospital an American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) associated hospital?
Do the veterinarians regularly attend conferences and other continuing education programs?

As part of your search, pay a visit to the facilities you are interested in and have a tour. Make appointments to meet the veterinarians. If your dog has ongoing medical or behavioral problems, find out if the veterinarian is comfortable in treating those problems.
Hopefully, your dog will have a healthy life and never need a specialist, but if a specialist is needed, they are available. Some veterinarians will have a special interest in certain areas of medicine or surgery and specialize in it. If they are board-certified, it means that they have studied and have passed board-certification exams in that specialty.
Specialists
The following is a partial list of specialties that have board-certification:

Internal medicine: Specializing in the diagnosis and treatment of disorders that involve the internal organs such as the liver, kidneys, and pancreas.
Surgery - orthopedic and soft tissue: Specializing in the diagnosis and treatment of disorders that need surgery to repair such as back surgery, complicated fractures, or abdominal surgery.
Dermatology: Specializing in the diagnosis and treatment of skin disorders including allergies.
Behavior: Specializing in the diagnosis and treatment of behavioral problems such as aggression, separation anxiety, or house soiling.
Oncology: Specializing in the diagnosis and treatment of cancers.
Radiology: Specializing in reading x-ray, Cat scans, MRis, and ultrasounds.
Cardiology: Specializing in the diagnosis and treatment of heart diseases.
Ophthalmology: Specializing in the diagnosis and treatment of eye disorders.

If a referral to a specialist is recommended by your veterinarian or you would like a second opinion from a specialist, ask your veterinarian to tell you who in your region is board-certified in the necessary specialty. A listing of the various veterinary boards are included the ads on the side of this page.
Conclusion
Veterinarian with a client and his dog

The relationship between you, your dog, and your veterinarian will hopefully last many years, so take time to find the right 'fit.' Since you will need to be able to discuss your pet's symptoms, test results, and treatment options with your veterinarian, good communication is of utmost importance. Find a clinic with veterinarians who you feel comfortable with and have good 'bedside manners.' Once you have found that veterinarian, we strongly recommend regular veterinary visits, or at the very least, annual physical exams.

Exersize Needs For Yor Dog.

Tips for Exercising Dogs!

Introduction

Congratulations! You are interested in exercising your dog, keeping your dog fit, and spending quality time with your dog. Exercise with your dog will help your dog to stay healthy, and this practice will strengthen the bonds of friendship between you and your canine friend. Below you will find some helpful tips to keep in mind when you are exercising your dog.

Things to Keep in Mind

Wherever you are taking your dog to exercise, remember safety first rules. Keep your dog’s lead in tip top shape. For any walking, jogging, or running exercises, you should use a harness on your dog instead of a collar. Make sure that the harness is snug but not too tight, and frequently check your dog’s lead for any frays and impending breaks.
Always make sure that your dog has access to fresh, clean water during exercise times. If possible, bring a little pack with a small bowl and a bottle of water with you. Do not let your dog drink out of puddles or standing water.
Your dog should have a warm-up period before any strenuous exercise. A short walk, or a quick game with a ball or frisbee, is a good way to get your dog’s body ready for a work out.
Dogs want to please their owner no matter what they do. Some dogs may actually harm themselves trying to please their owners during an exercise routine. As you are exercising your dog, watch for any signs of exhaustion in your dog. Periodically check your dog’s feet for any sores, and keep an eye out for any limping.
Dogs can become sunburned just like people. If you are exercising with your dog outside, try to exercise in the morning and late afternoon hours.
There are plenty of exercising accessories on the market today that can keep your pet comfortable during exercise times. For example, doggy shoes can protect paws from scrapes and cuts and sweaters can keep dog’s warm during cold winter work outs.

Dog Exercise Needs.

We often think of exercise only as a health issue, but it has significant day-to-day effects on a dog's behavior as well. Dogs--particularly puppies and young dogs--have a lot of energy, and if they don't get the chance to burn it off,destructive behavior is often the result. If you're annoyed at the holes your dog has dug, have headaches from hisbarking, and have to replace pillows shredded into expensive fluff, your dog's probably not getting enough exercise.
These behavior issues cause many people to give up their dogs, even though they're completely preventable. (You know those "free to a good home, dog needs room to run" ads? They're usually placed by people whose dogs don't need room to run; they need exercise they're not getting.) Unfortunately, some people don't think enough about exercise when selecting a breed, and they choose a dog who needs more exercise than they're willing or have time to provide.

How much exercise does my dog need?

How much exercise is enough depends on your dog's age, breed, and health. A 10-month old Irish Terrier puppy is going to need more than a five-year old Whippet (you could appropriately sing, "Wild thing, you make my heart sing" as your puppy races around the house and yard). A sight hound needs short bursts of exercise; guarding dogs don't need as much overall as sporting breeds who like to hunt all day. Even within a breed, the need varies. A highly energetic eight-year-old Golden Retriever could easily need more exercise than a calm three-year old Golden. Andgeriatric dogs still need to go for walks--just shorter ones than they used to enjoy.
Generally speaking, a leashed walk around the block isn't going to cut it. Most dogs need 30 to 60 minutes of exercise a day. Your canine pal needs enough that he's slowed down by the time you stop. Some general rules of thumb:

Active breeds need a minimum of 30 minutes of hard aerobic exercise most days of the week, preferably daily.
Not all toy or small breeds get enough exercise inside the house (contrary to popular belief). Pugs, for example, are prone to obesity and need much more exercise than they usually get.
It's not safe to go out in extremely hot or cold weather. During such periods, stay inside and teach tricks to engage your dog's mind, throw toys, or run up and down the stairs together.
Good exercise uses both mental and physical muscles. Exploring a new hiking trail, for example, engages your dog's mind as well as his body.
Live by the philosophy that a tired dog is a good dog.

Where to get exercise

Like people, most dogs like both familiarity and a little variety in their exercise routines.

Many dogs get to know the neighborhood duringwalks and enjoy checking on their favorite spots.
Dog parks are popular places for off-leash exercise and romping with other dogs, which is exactly what most dogs need. However, not all dogs can play nicely with others. If your dog doesn't like other dogs, the dog park is definitely not the place for him.
Doggie day care can exercise both his mind and body. Dogs should come home from day care worn out and deliciously happy.

The cost of not getting enough

Inactive dogs are often overweight dogs, and as in people, that brings plenty of health risks. Obesity contributes to a dog's risk of diabetes, respiratory disease, and heart disease. It exacerbates common orthopedic concerns such as hip dysplasia and arthritis. Obesity can stress joints, ligaments, and tendons. Geriatric dogs often have a hard enough time getting up without the added problem of lifting excess pounds.

Dog Nutrition And Harmful Medicines.

Dog Medicines and Their Side Effects

Prepare to be shocked! The dog medicine prescribed for your best friend holds many 'shushed-up' side effects. Find the most prescribed dog medicine side effects - which are often harmful and fatal - on the detailed listing below.

Just to name a few, there's information for dog medicine Nsaids (like tylenol and ibuprophen) side effects, Predisone for dogs side effects, Dexamethasone for dogs side effects, dog medicine Buspar side effects, Aspirin side effects, side effects of Advil, the anti dog inflammatory medicine Rimadyl side effects, Torbutrol side effects, and basically the most prescribed dog pain medicines, and their side effects.

Your dog depends on you, protect him by educating yourself about these drugs. Prolong your dog's life span and general well-being with herbal pet medicines instead of synthetic drugs.